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Lilia Comedor describes itself as serving Pacific Northwest cuisine through the lens of the Mexican American chef, an apt if somewhat wan description of the chef Juan Gomez’s vibrant and specific cooking. Most effective to Enable dishes like silky halibut with morels, mole and flakes of rice chicharron, and pork collar confit with heirloom carrot
His fried thighs, brined in chamomile tea, are the highlight of a deconstructed Sunday supper platter packed with biscuits, chicken salad, sunchoke scorching sauce plus a ramekin of gravy for dipping. He’s obtained loads of oysters, too, served raw, more than charred bread with scallion butter or dressed in sauces like French curry. When you’re
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